Tag Archives: Cafe

All things culinary (Culinaris)

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An English breakfast sounded tempting and at half the price of the expat pubs I wasn’t expecting miracles, though hoping nonetheless.
Up till that point Culinaris was a chance to buy good or “rarely found in Hungary” food at a price that would leave you feeling like after a date in prison.
My first encounter had been through winning a 10000huf prize in a sudoku competition, back when ten was still considered money, but recently I hadn’t dared. Imagine if I saw something at a price I couldn’t afford. Well I’d probably have found a pub nearby and drank my wishes away.
This time I was determined and yet not surprised when a very big plate, or very small portion, arrived.
A ramekin full of baked beans. Perhaps better than the alternative bed of beans that one gets back home, the other home.
A rasher in the full, not streaky, sense.
A fried egg ; and the pièce de résistance, the sausage. A skinny affair if all be told but definitely a tasty morsel, unlike another expat haunt I could mention where you’d be waiting for Godot for a decent breakfast sausage.
A few cuts off a baguette dropped almost haphazardly off to one side finished off the presentation.
What had I been expecting and yet getting two for a price still less than the expat pubs meant it was a comparably good deal, if boxing to that weight division. I wasn’t so it’s doubtful that I’ll be running back, but as the only Culinaris I know that offers the cafe to the side, it’s definitely somebody’s cup of tea.

©TheHairyTeacher2013

Arts and drafts

Arts and drafts

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I missed the opening of an exhibition here at Jurányi arts centre, on the street of the same name, recently and frankly if I had turned up and there hadn’t been free wine I may just have thrashed the gaff. Now the drawings were good as far as chalk on wall goes but I wouldn’t call it an exhibition: a drawing exhibited, but not warranting the whole nine yards. Unless there was free wine!

Well, anyway, inside this old school building, well preserved as it is, there is a passageway down beyond the entrance. Turning right and following the coloured lines one will find the gallery, the exhibition area, but more importantly the cafe/bar.

On offer there is a selection of sandwiches, tasting as if just unwrapped from their plastic packets, cakes tempting to the sweet-toothed, and the remaining array of drinks you’d expect of any cafe.

Tucked inside the building one does get a feeling, what with hard chairs and checked tiled floors, that this could be canteeny, but being in the heart of an old school that doesn’t sound too shocking. There has been an attempt to brighten things up with the trademark colouring not only on the corridor floor but on the programs, almost inconspicuously placed about.

It is clean and there are even a few more comfortable sofa but what makes this place may be the view to the street or the courtyard or the chance to eavesdrop on artists’ conversations, but if like me you can’t speak Hungarian very well the former option is not enough. It doesn’t lack in offers: a lunchtime menu exists with soup, sandwich, salad choices, but for a person who craves atmosphere it is a bit of a let down.

Perhaps it’s the quiet before the storm; a festival event is scheduled for two hours from now. Perhaps it’s Friday. Perhaps it’s the hum of the fridges, the rain starting outside. All factors accounted for I ‘d say this place is a handy option in out of the bustle this side of town when bars and chain cafes aren’t your thing. It could grow on me as an escape from the crowd but for now I must go in search of that very thing.

©TheHairyTeacher2013

Sugar-coated

Sugar-coated

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The imposing, almost threatening, chandelier looming above the counter all aglass in the Auguszt cukrászda on Kossuth Lajos utca could seem out of place, almost vulgar, but not here. Alongside the finely upholstered easy chairs, as well as basic seats, and the classical wall mural, everything is where it should be…and without the lean towards forced extravagance. Even the edges, polished to the modern, still function clinically as reinforcements, their wrought iron effect not running against the overall turn of the last century feel. The two picture windows screen street life and so whether for a chat or to just watch the world there are the contrasting intimate corners versus the window display seating. Upstairs there is even more seating offering one the opportunity to look down on all the comings and goings.

As for the prices: at 450huf for an average cake and 490huf a long coffee this isn’t cheap. If you are pocket motivated then Jégbüfé at Ferenciek tere farther up towards the river is the better option but for a taste of decadence, at least by surroundings, this is the place to be.

©TheHairyTeacher2013

An Artist’s Retreat?

An Artist’s Retreat?

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The Művész Kávéhaz and Étterem in Orbán tér is old school posh (chandeliers etc) like downtown, but with low ceilings, and a feeling to pocketlandia 12th district style. I don’t know; I haven’t tried the bacon and eggs: there is a breakfast menu, and plenty of food besides, but apart from the generous croissant and coffee at 650huf, I suspect there’s little else to appeal, or perhaps in its clique it offers lunch time menus only to make a killing on the drinks. Krizia, Mozsár utca, comes to mind. I’m not against this place for its style, and even its location offers life, what with bus stops and a supermarket nearby. High up it also has a view towards a distance and on a beautiful Spring evening that’s colourful. What then gives, though I’ve hinted already! Dréher Bak: 850huf! Good luck and good riddance.

 

©TheHairyTeacher2013

Baking Westside

Baking Westside

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Being on the sunny side of the street isn’t everything, especially when you have a view to it, and here at the Bakery Cafe near Nyugati at 9.30am in the morning, that’s how it is. Seating is set at a big picture window overlooking the tram stop and the steps down to the supermarket at the base of the Skála building.

There is plenty of floor space around the counter and considering the movement of customers in and out since being here I would say this was good foresight.

The question for me is this however. Is it really a cafe in the sit down and while away the time way or is it more fastfood, user friendly in that sense.I would venture to the latter because no matter, since I’ve sat down everybody else has come and gone. It’s a ten minute max, not an hour chat kinda place. The high stools indicate as such.

Anyway, on offer are sticky bun like creatures, tekercsek, pretzel savouries, teas, coffees, and other drinks, and going snacky it’s not bad. One quib: plastic forks etc…it doesn’t break the heart to wash a bit of cutlery and it is more environmentally friendly.

The best I can say is that with a few minutes to spare and in the vicinity it offers a cheaper alternative to Costa Coffee but less seating than McDonalds. The street can be a welcome distraction and no doubt due to its location it has every chance of flourishing. Good luck to it.

 

©TheHairyTeacher2013

Basic-ally

Basic-ally

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On Révay Köz, just off the busy Bajcsy-Zsilinszky, and directly across from the basilica if you find yourself on the high stools that line the pavement outside, Basil Ica is one of those little places that are impressing more and more in Budapest, and more often Pest. With a bustling tourist trade just off their edge, in fact beginning around the corner and straddling the 6th and 5th districts from this perspective, it is one of those cheap eat options that still retains its integrity. A simple pancake served up on a large plate sprinkled with a whisp of icing sugar suggests chef pretentions, or at least late nights with Paprika TV or one of the now numerous home education channels foodwise. And to rate it…a decent pancake with that right consistency, me being the self-proclaimed Prince of Palacsinta all of a sudden!
A neat little gaff with a selection of pancakes, sweet and savoury, sandwiches, salads, omelettes etc…it could make a mint from the thrifty tourists so why not read and spread this review. As to ulterior motives, me!?
Open from 8.30 a.m. and with breakfast options this place could be smart, although on that point… don’t expect WIFI. God, how we’ve forgotten ourselves!
For everything else it ticks boxes and while seating is high-stool and legroom-less on facing the window, don’t let this deter you: it’s not a fancy diner, rather a snack-and-go or to-go at best.
Will I return? If in the area and peckish. Would I recommend it? If you’re in the area and peckish!
But seriously, try it out…

 

©TheHairyTeacher2013

Bohemian burgers and beer

Bohemian burgers and beer

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On Lövőház in the up and coming area – once an awkward car street, now pedestrianised – there is another addition to the flourish, Bohem 16. As to whether it’s connected to what was there before I cannot say but the prices suggest otherwise. I remember sitting out for a coffee and just finding the bill criminal. These days there’s this place, with a pint of Soproni coming in at 390huf. Finding a place under 400 these days is tricky if you don’t want the overly-lived-in feel, and on Buda side it comes as a surprise. Not that Cheerio up the road isn’t cheap, it’s just that this place has aspirations to more than that kocsma flavour.

First off, there is wifi and a food menu which includes burgers and salads, the latter being the pricier at 900 – 1700, while, surprisingly burgers are 700 a pop. Of course, this would suggest basic but even still there is a variety on the theme, chili, cheese, etc. so if feeling peckish and thirsty and in the mood for something cosier than the kocsma meleg szendvics and minimalism, this is a good alternative.

On entering from the street down a flight of steps one is confronted by a cellar bar with the cavernous ceilings to boot. Tables line the wall under the street level windows, while the bar dominates the other wall, bar stools all aligned. Over in the far corner is a wonderful armchair for the purposes of being.

Another room adjoins just off the entrance and has even more of the comfy chairs to offer. In all a tidy affair with the potential to a good booze-up and, what with the street outside for those of the feet persuasion, tables in the sunshine means Springtime.

The music was unintrusive, if desired, but the selection including The Boss meant that in between moments lazing back and allowing the atmosphere to envelope me, I wasn’t left all alone.

The staff were up to the task, and engaging, so for me its relative newness merely spells great potential. Let’s see.

Bohem 16

 

©TheHairyTeacher2013

 

Breakfast or not

Breakfast or not

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TIFFANY’S in the Batthyány tér market hall offers airiness and comfort without the hustle and bustle of the Plaza cafes. It’s set off from the rest of the shops on the first floor and, if standing, there is a view which carries one across to the parliament buildings on the Pest bank opposite. In fact, for many tourists, a photo of said building at river level is best obtained from here, by here I mean the bank wall on Bem rákpart.

Through the window another photo is possible, made perhaps more atmospheric through the dusty glass, but with the foreground that includes the comings and goings of this Buda-side public transport hub. Buses run to and fro around the square while a tram at the bank takes one south on what can be at ponits a very picturesque tram ride.

NOW as for the cafe itself there are seats leading in from the pedestrian way around the floor, islands in their way extending out from the area, itself a stylised island, three quarters open with the part nearest the windows closed off to counter service,instead alllowing for a gallery area providing more seating.

Staff are friendly with one particular chap, though a tad stern-faced, quite welcoming of my mashed Hungarian. A smile on such a frown is almost unsettling as it is relieving.

Prices are to the level of the square it located in with coffees starting at 350huf while teas of flighty pretensions starting at 590huf. A bottled beer, Soproni, is 390huf and this is for the 500ml which is the price list’s most positive surprise.

In a nutshell, a place for an intimate chat away from the congestion of other cafes nearby, and a step off escape routes up and down , as well as, across river if required.

Tiffany’s

 

©TheHairyTeacher2013

Good Marketing

Good Marketing

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Set away within the framework interior of the Lehel market building this Fancy* little Cafe has its general appeal. Below on the market floor, the raw meat, and fresh fruit and veg vies for purchase on the punters’ purse strings while on this floor in the environs, cheap clothes and shoes make promises in price that I know from experience they will not keep.

Never mind because if you’ve found yourself with time, maybe with shopping bags weighing you down, this little cafe offers hope in terms of well made coffee.

A polished affair of wood and brass inside, there are also the obligatory metal seats outside and whereas they may not offer the same luxuriant feel they are perched at the railing, overlooking the activities below.

Coffee is freshly ground here and can be bought by the bag as well as enjoyed in brew. Other beverages are also on offer, teas etc., and there are the compulsory marlenkas (layered cakes) on the counter. Sometimes there’s more, sometimes less, but it is a place to pass a while, the atmosphere within the shell of Lehel market building, abounding.

*http://www.fancycafe.hu/

 

©TheHairyTeacher2013

Moka pokey

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A step off the main drag, Margit Körút style, at the corner of Varsányi Irén and Eröd utca(k), this one’s new to me, but I gather, also to the neighbourhood.
The first thing I noticed was its relative modesty from outside, a chalkboard and a small sign bare indication. If I hadn’t been told of this place I may never have found it – but aren’t such places sometimes the best.
Well let’s see.
On entering: a low table to the left, two small tables to the right, and a bar curving out in front makes it, as the exterior, certainly not boasting swank. A stairwell winding up suggests seating out of sight and this is pleasing considering everything downstairs is full, with one-a-table being a jam.
There’s free WIFI just in case the laptops accompanying nearly every single customer haven’t aleady given the game away, but these days that’s par for the course/to be expected.
I order and settle upstairs. Cosy seats, low tables, not the best for writing on, but it does force me to unwind, and that is what I do, caffeine to hand.
The general atmosphere is subdued, gentle, placid and the staff are suitably laid-back, friendly, and curious. Chalked up on the wall is a food menu but I regard it only as a snap Hungarian lesson, I’ve just come from food…home-cooked…the best:)
But what has me really kicking back and letting go, beyond the confines of my armchair is the music; a mix of Jazz, slow blues, and old R&B (the good stuff when singers had voices not just funky names). To top it all off the sounds are omitting from a record player, the real deal – vinyls, needle caressing, and not a scratch to be heard. What manner of preservation is this! Almost unholy, what with my Hits 5 playing like a seance snippet off of Paranormal Weekly these days, well like it would if I had a record player. I’m not HD me, I’m all for da mood. Like smoke in a dark and dirty Jazz bar, I miss some of the things which are now considered bad for me.
As I finish my coffee I laze, I inhale, and I promise to return. It’s a wee bit on the parsimonious in terms of overall space but just to huddle up to the vinyls and speak about times past, I could offer up my peg leg – again!
Moka…tis no joke!!!

 

©TheHairyTeacher2013

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