Author Archives: martinoregan

Kind a karma

I hurried between the cars. At another time it would have been dark, but Spring has arrived dragging summer along, and of late the evenings had been stretching. The flashing green light gave me the right to be on the road but I just wasn’t sure I could venture across without looking. This city was unforgiving to those who were careless or apt to take it for granted. Rules here applied on a hierarchy*: a pedestrian stepping amongst motorised vehicles was the lowest of things. The way was safe, so my senses proclaimed, and I made the far footpath still intact. Engines rumbled about me but in the cooling evening shadow the sound held a pleasant air even if the stink still couldn’t.

I don’t know if he’d spotted me from afar as vulnerable, or was I just one of many. The latter would pertain to truth but for now I felt like the unlucky antelope, singled out for special attention. Why couldn’t that have been my role where girls were involved! Through the hedgerow I first glimpsed him rising from his porchway step, his drunken friends resplendent in their slurring (noodling: ref to Hungarian) support.

His smile, gapped and stained, with his watery eyes, were his weapons, as was his charm, lost on me, however, as I struggled to deciphre words. He may have been chosen because he was the most eloquent of the bunch but as I had sprung my defences early, assuming no understanding – it wasn’t my language afterall – nothing of his initial assault filtered through. He was not deterred, nor was I. The change in my back pocket was ready for use. I only needed to deploy it.

I smiled genuinely, I had no reason not to.

„Mit akarsz?” ( What do you want?)

A mumbled reply.

„Igen igen,” I countered, „ de mit akarsz?”

I hinted at an urgency but in truth my only haste was to sit and have my drink before the bus arrived. It would, therefore, be best if this negotiation could be rendered short but significant.

„Apro.” (Change)

„ Jo!” (Good)

„ Csak egy kicsit?” (Just a little?)

„ Csak egy kicsit!” I replied as I handed him a 200 forint coin. Not much but on these streets not a little.

He smiled appreciatively and left with a goodbye. I, likewise, passed on a salute and perched nearby, opened my bottle, and began to drink. I should go unmolested, I assumed, because, at least, I had been kind. Isn’t that how Karma works!

 

* http://thehairyteacher.com/?p=439

Find out where

Bearing down upon you the Lions at the Chain Bridge (Lanc Hid) appear to have no tongues leading to such legends as the sculptor, Marschalko János, committing suicide having realised his error. However, from another angle the tongues appear to be firmly in place debunking at least the first part of the myth. To find out more about the man who made it all happen, and some, here’s a link to try:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chain_Bridge_%28Budapest%29

As for the story about Marschalko, now you shouldn’t believe everything you hear, especially not late at night and a few beers in, while in the company of a beautiful woman who seemed to be able to make even  the shadows recede in reverence!

Posted in Budapest Life

The train way

To say he laughed heartily would be an understatement, he bellowed, and with every expulsion of mirth heads swivelled till at one point an old man stayed fixed on the proceedings. Whether entertained or annoyed I never found out though the Big Man for his part was undeterred, perhaps even thrilled, by all the attention. Stories which would have best been kept slightly hush-hush became public information and just in case there was any doubt as to the validity of many a tall claim his name dropped acquaintances were put in context: “Shur you always see that kind of thing in the Guards.” The Guards, or Gardaí, being the Irish Police force, and he being bulky enough to have the pleasure of being mistaken for one, even had he not been, people who perhaps disagreed with his politics rather kept their mouths shut. He was not a man to be messed with!

Along with his laughter came a package of pride. He was a Corkman and could not for the life of himself imagine why anyone would want to leave that great city by the Lee. When I nearly mentioned for love, I checked myself. I already ran the script through my head on that count. The idea of reading love sonnets to this man was akin to teaching table manners to a Hyena, though the latter in this case I could imagine being civil enough as to ask as to the necessity of the knife and fork.

To say that this man was uncouth, boorish, ill-mannered would be also to betray in myself a sense of snobbery which I struggle not to adhere to and it is for this reason that I take to these characters quickly. He was afterall entertainment on a 3 hour train journey that would otherwise have been a simple game of Cat and Mouse between my partner, Andi, and me, and our daughter, Tara.

This was our return trip so we had already experienced the extent of Tara’s curiosity concerning public transport. To say that the Big Man offered us a welcome distraction would be serving it up diluted. Even she, at the tender age of one and a half, could sense the awe which this man commanded. Her father may be her beacon but this fella was a mountain of being.

Well this ‘mountain’ was most entertaining but just as the train arrived in Dublin, as if he knew, he questioned us as  to our destination, ie accommodation, and when we replied, giving the name in question, he offered his mightiest howl yet. At this stage the others began scrambling for the exits, though the train was still ten minutes off, and when we shot him half quizzical/ half sheepish looks he went on to explain. Monday’s their busiest night, it’s Guards and nurses night!!! He needn’t have said more…but he did and, whereas, I’m sure he had no intention of being cruel, the very fact that he had nothing reassuring to convey only served to compound my worst fears.

It had all been too easy: the booking, the price, the location, and now here I was with my partner and child about to head into the jaws of the beast that was nightlife Dublin.

Home

 

Jackson Court Hotel

jackson-court-hotel-dublin
For fun, not family

 

Jackson Court Hotel, 29/30 Harcourt Street, Saint Stephen’s Green, D2 Dublin

Situated as it is just up from St. Stephen’s Green in the centre of Dublin City the Jackson Court Hotel is definitely worth a try if you are interested in a relatively cheap stay. It is not, however, recommended for those who value a good night’s sleep as it has a club located on the ground floor.

The staff, as we experienced, were quite friendly and whereas our booking went slightly awry (a story seemingly common if you were to read other reviews) we were provided with a room which was definitely worth the stay. Of course the club beneath thumping till 3 or 4 am wasn’t a sweet lullaby, at least not to the adults in the room. Our wee one, Tara, merely hopped to the beat for a period before finding dreamland beckoning.

The location of the room on the top floor of the ‘wing without a lift’ was a reason to be dubious, especially with a kid and buggy in tow, but apart from the physical exertion required, and perhaps needed if the roundening belly is anything to go by, all went well in this respect.

It wouldn’t be top of my list of recommended stays but if partying is what you’re in the Capital for then it is a pocket friendly alternative with the on the premises club offering a good solution on a rainy night.

Be warned: As mentioned the club makes sleeping a chore but don’t be banking on this as merely a weekend drawback; the busiest night is Monday when the nurses and off-duty (I hope) police, known as Gardaí, come out to party, and boy do they!

http://www.jackson-court.ie/

Other reviews:

“Attracted by the price I’d have to say that it’s location is its forté. The club attached would be perfect for the late nighters but not for families methinks!

No lift to some floors which is ok except with baby in tow.

http://www.booking.com/hotel/ie/jackson-court.hu.html?aid=319854;label=jackson-court-iHHe*y7v*up4Dwa4Pp2k2gS4313681019;ws=&gclid=CM2AhbKqlrACFQpd3woduHED5Q#hash-blockdisplay4

http://www.booking.com/hotel/ie/jackson-court.html?aid=319854;label=jackson-court-iHHe*y7v*up4Dwa4Pp2k2gS4313681019;sid=d1dad585648bda028b57787e561bfd98;dcid=1;lang=en-gb&ppcref=1#hash-blockdisplay4

http://thehairyteacher.com/?p=367

 

Brownies-Overdone

Interior of Brownies
In cosy surrounds

 

A return to the same establishment with a full family in tow conveyed to us a different picture of the whole affair. While service was still splendid the speed with which the dishes arrived to our table had slowed considerably and, whereas that can be understandable with a big group, a kitchen needs to be prepared. However, drinks to hand the waiting was made tolerable. The biggest fault this times was that the potatoes, chips (french fries) served with the meal were slightly singed and while we hungrily ate the lot it was still something of a disappointment after our previous visits. Perhaps the pressure had been too much and, well, if it had then it’s not up to the customer to pay the price!

I wish…

LookingBack
Reflection

I wish my lust’d been purer,

directed with desire, not fear.

Exposed and foolish in the light

rather than behind a drab net curtain.

I wish my love’d been stronger,

not conditional, rancid with jealousy.

I’d fear the loss of things before

ever I was allowed them.

I wish my mind’d been stronger,

not driven by the whims, critiques of others.

I’m not a bully but I am worse;

I’m the one who fears to speak!

 

Brownies

SuburbFood
Home is where the heart is…!

 

Situated in the 12th District of Budapest Brownie’s is one of those suburban gems. If you don’t know the area you may never stumble across it but if you have the lust for life (or just the mere curiosity to see around the next corner) you could do a lot worse than find yourself holed up in here on a cold winter’s evening. With its modern furnishings tastefully done, and with a clever use of space, it has all the provisions for that home away from home. It is cosy, snug…etc.

Seating is arranged in the interior in two sections, with the larger of the two areas ideal for those long table affairs so bring along the pals and have a proper knees up. However, if a more intimate evening is required you could do well to perch yourself at the tables just inside the door. Somehow with the bar facing and a pillar marking the entrance to the other section, it removes you slightly and offers a sense of privacy, that is if the traffic in the door and to the toilet aren’t overwhelming.

There is also outside seating on offer when the weather starts to pick up and knowing Hungarians is to understand that though a place may be quiet during the winter months, a seat outside and a hint of sunshine brings them crawling from the woodwork in search of La Dolce Vita. The warmer weather brings with it the barbecue season and on the decking outside amid a tumble of benches a space is set aside to start the juices flowing. So be prepared. You may arrive for a drink and end up homeward bound with a bellyful, and not just alcohol.

Lest it be said that this is it, the end, the whole deal, a full menu is on offer at anytime from the kitchen and is marked by weekly,and seasonal offers. There is a basic set of dishes too which include such appetisers as  breaded mushroom stuffed with ewe-cheese, a cheese, fruit and nut plate, aubergine cream with toast (quite popular hereabouts in the starter menus so try it everywhere you go just as a comparitive adventure!!!) and so on. Traditional meat dishes are catered for in the main courses with a  particular roasted piglet, cabbage and potato dish served up especially for New Year’s Eve. Pizza and pasta is also on offer and a selection of tasty desserts. Drinks are in a variety of qualities, house wines as well as those more upmarket. Beers are within range with a local on offer that won’t break the bank.

Overall the prices are more than competitive and one gets the feeling that the owner has set out to truly put the customer first in his endeavours to keep such a selection, and quality, within such a reasonable price range. Or maybe it’s because the owner himself is also the one that ensures that your experience is pleasant by overseeing everything personally from the floor, waiting on you and offering suggestions as he deems fit. If the latter allows for the former so be it.

Concerning families, there is a child tolerant atmosphere with even a small table set aside for the kids but a nappy changing area is lacking so if not deterred be prepared to use your ingenuity. It will not be frowned upon to change a nappy as long as there is an alternative to be discreet, i.e. not on top of the bar or next to other customers who have just been served their food while baby has just served up their own type delicacy!!!

In all a place worth revisiting and where good service and quality come naturally.

http://www.brownies.hu

Brownies-Overdone

 

 

 

 

Ostrom, if you please

Buda with a twist

 

In a nice location, just below the castle and just up from Moszkva tér/ Széll Kálmán tér (!) Ostram bar is underground and, while furnished in a modern sense, it still holds enough not to be too obscene or tacky. With two big screens on the wall facing as you enter it is all set up for those Saturday afternoon football affairs. Beer is reasonably priced and even the better quality wines won’t break the bank. The house wine for that matter is very palatable, at least for the less discerning taste buds and lest I be the snob I’ll give the ‘folyo’ the thumbs up. Well lit it lends to a relaxed atmosphere but with a sound system that boasts potential (it’s down low now and the rumbling base resonantes soul deep, the hungry beast beneath) this place could get very loud, and very club, later on.

Nibbling on nuts I’m reminded that here in Hungary it isn’t the custom to serve snacks with drinks, unless requested, and so these little touches are warming the cockles of my heart. WIFI is also available so for those with needs not directly drink related there’s still the excuse to combine the two. And if peanuts aren’t your thing, check out the sandwich selection on offer. Basic, but just what the doctor ordered.

Overall: Like a good mojito I’d call this place refreshing!

http://hovamenjek.com/i-kerulet/ostrom-cafe-es-bar.html

http://www.ostromcafe.hu/

 

A wild west

Wildwest-Budapest
Come on! I dare ya!

Near the corner of Nagymező and Ó utca there is a little poke of a place, Saloon Pub, by name. It’s lit up well and as the name suggests it’s done in the Cowboy/Wild West style. The painted wood finish, in plaster, allows for the idea tha someone made use of their artistic skills while at the same time remaining shrewd concerning real wood furnishings. With seats enough for twenty and still floor space left over between door and bar and toilet, it certainly is a good use of space. The T.V. stuck up on high to the right as you enter through the almost non-door, is a prerequisite in bars of its kind. A step above the typical cellar kocsma, it perhaps is merely a ground version with pretentions. The drinks on offer are basic, the selection of wine being ‘kimért’, while the beers include among them nothing Hungarian. A shame by any standard, it perhaps is indicative of the Hungarian mentality of selling themsleves short, seeing everything foreign, at least in the beer sense, as better. Pitching oneself against the Czechs and Belgians, one would favour the foreigners but with the Danish and the Dutch, especially popular, brands there’s hope on the homefront. Ah, but try telling that to the nouveau-riche, aka új gazdag!!!

While cider may warrant a mention it’s merely to suggest that, in a town that has, until a few years ago no idea what the apple brew was, it is available!

Pálinka has a seperate section on the price list and well may it while other Hungaricums, including Unicum and Vilmos, also make an appearance. With wines and spirits Hungarian pride is much more prominent to the point of arrogant. That’s another story!

The parketta floor completes the wood feel and overall it’s a place to visit for a quiet one mid afternoon or for a few with the lads before moving on. Again be warned. I’ve found this place near tea-time on Thursday and it’s quite probable that later on it takes on the life of a bar so centrally located should, so it is wise to arrive on time for a seat cos sensibly in most places, Hungarians prefer to sit and chat rather than stand and be jostled. That is until club time, then all decorum is lost. Enjoy.

http://kocsma.blog.hu/2011/03/19/saloon_pub

for other views

http://hu-hu.facebook.com/pages/Saloon-Pub/143333715709401

First Impressions

MoarchiaEtterem
A time to reflect

 

Monarchia Étterem and Kávéház: Mosonmagyaróvár

In Óvár, there is a cafe, or perhaps more a Kávéház, with Cukrászda intentions. For a facade with such pretentions the interior is no less obnoxious. It is of the old cafe style, I fear, less frequented by my ancestors who took more to dingy dark damp holes, the Irish way.

The greeting I received was in Hungarian but the question as to the way I wanted my Cappucino was definitely German, which I found a shame, though judging by the other clientele and the Auf Wiedersehens flying, it could be forgiven. The default setting in these parts is heavily leaning towards Deutsch.

Nicely situated and, apart from the German flittering, which was only frustrating for a student of the Hungarian language anyway, a pleasant staff all round. Although, and this is perhaps only because of the day that’s in it, the confectionery selection for a house of such elegance falls short of a real range, the few token familiars sparse on the refrigerator shelves. Perhaps as I’ve said, tis but the day that’s in it or maybe, and let not my bias be ignored, a suti to my liking wasn’t on offer – I couldn’t, therefore, see the woods for the want of a Francia Krémes! On a final note and revisiting the location element, with seats sitting out on the Lajta, canalesque, bank this is certainly a place worth whiling away a lazy morning or hot summer’s day. As of yet I haven’t paid the bill: note, just a cappucino with cream, but if the other clientele are anything to go by this will be more in the American chain price bracket than the cellar Kocsma kind.

We’ll see, but in truth maybe you should see for yourself!!!

Epilogue: At 390 huf it was standard price and I may be forgiven for thinking that being plush equates to being pricey. In Budapest, yes…but not here seemingly.

 

http://monarchia-kavehaz.internettudakozo.hu/indexen.htm

 

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